Wednesday, June 10, 2015

The End is Near for CAP Americano Sur 2015

It is sad for me to think about my travels coming to an end for a couple reasons.  The first is the fact that I will probably never get the chance to travel like this again.  It was a pure blessing to be able to even come to South America at all. Of course it doesn’t mean that I will never travel again; that would be silly.  I plan to continue traveling for the rest of my life.  It will always be a priority; though, it will most likely never be of this magnitude again.  Having experienced World Tour and now CAP Americano Sur, I think I am ok with that.  These trips are amazing experiences.  They are also exhausting experiences.  I think everyone has reached their limits for now and is ready to go home, myself included.  It is funny though to compare this duration of a trip to an entire semester.  It has been so much easier this time around than it was for World Tour.  Many people have complained about being tired and fed up with life on the road.  It isn’t terrible for me yet because I always have World Tour to compare it to.  It can always be worse, no matter what the situation is. 

The second reason that I am sad to see this trip come to an end is because I have really enjoyed traveling with Amanda.  She has helped make it so much more fun than it would have been without her.  Odds are we won’t be able to do something like this again.  You learn a lot about someone when you live with them.  You learn even more about them when you travel together.  Amanda and I have done both and we have yet to kill each other.  In fact, we are still friends, not that I ever doubted our friendship over the duration of our travels, but I at least expected to be annoyed at times.  That comes with traveling in general.  I admit there were times we got frustrated with each other, but I don’t think it was ever directed at each other personally, more just the situation in general.

Despite the week of altitude sickness, it has been a fantastic trip.  I couldn’t have asked for anything better, really.  Between Amanda and I, there are plenty of photos to look back on to process everything that we experienced over the past month.  I am still trying to convince myself that just in the past week I walked among the ruins of Machu Picchu, surfed off the coast of Lima, and walked through the streets of La Paz, the highest metropolis in the world.  How did I get so lucky?

Lima, Peru

If I am being completely honest, Lima was just another city to me.  It wasn’t a bad one; there was just not much that I saw that stands out in my mind.  That being said, we were only there for a couple days so I wouldn’t say that I really got to experience the city.  One reason for that is because it is very difficult to get around.  The only form of public transportation in Lima is the bus system.  Imagine a city of 10 million people with only a bus system.  It is nuts! 

Our first day in Lima we took a bus to the city center, that is the square where the government buildings are located.  It is also the main historic center of the city.  Not only was it a long ride, it was chaotic!  Ana asked at least five different people what bus we should take and where to find the stop, and she got five different answers.  No one seemed to know what was going on.  It was only a few miles away from our hotel.  It should have been a quick bus ride; instead it took an hour and a half.  Even then we got off the bus because it wasn’t taking us to where we wanted to go.  After we got off the bus we had to walk several blocks to get to the square. 

The square was really pretty.  By the time we actually got there it was way past lunchtime, so we stopped for a nice meal before exploring.  A full afternoon was spent walking around taking photos, visiting the cathedral, and shopping at the markets.  Around 5 p.m. everyone met up to head back to neighborhood where our hotel was located.  No one even thought twice about that being rush hour.  The group spent an hour trying to locate and flag down the right bus to take us back.  The buses were absolutely packed, and traffic was moving at a snail’s pace.  Thankfully a nice man redirected us to a bus stop about 7 or 8 blocks away.  We eventually found and boarded the correct bus, but by then rush hour was in full swing, and we were getting nowhere fast.  Since the bus was packed full most of us had to stand for the two hours that it took to get back to the hotel.  It was not a pleasant experience, and is the reason why my first impressions of the city were not the best.  

My second impression of Lima is the complete opposite, and includes one of my favorite memories of the trip.  On Tuesday, a small group of us met for breakfast and headed to the beach.  Lima is located on the Pacific Ocean and is a great geographical location for surfing.  A guy from our group, Zach, is from South Carolina and has grown up surfing.  He decided to rent a surf board and spend the morning surfing on the coast of Lima.  We obviously did not want him to be there alone so we agreed to go hang out on shore, watch him, and keep an eye on his belongings.  I was excited to take it easy and enjoy the beach atmosphere.  I had no intentions of joining him. 

It wasn’t long before I found myself all zipped up and tucked into a wet suit, receiving surfing lessons.  Surfing has always been an activity on my bucket list.  I looked into it once while I was in California, but it was pretty expensive so I decided against it.  I don’t know what it was that got into me, but I spontaneously decided (with the help of Amanda and Paige) that if I was going to learn how to surf what better place to do it than Lima, Peru.  Plus, I was with someone I knew and it was incredibly cheap; I am talking $23 American dollars for an hour and a half of instruction and surfing.  I checked and double checked before I agreed to anything, just to make sure it was safe for beginners and average swimmers like me.  I was in no way prepared to surf, but I think that is what made it so fun.  I stuffed myself into wet suit with only my bra and underwear on under it (since I did not have a bathing suit), and pulled my hair back with a hair tie.  Just like that I was ready to surf, or ready to learn how to.    

Zach headed out to surf while I got the basic instructions about what to do and what not to do from my instructor Xavier.  We got out into the chilly Pacific water and, to my surprise, I did not feel cold at all.  My instructor did not waste any time and immediately helped me catch a wave.  The first time I was able to get up but only halfway, so I rode the wave out on my knees.  The second time I tried, I bit the dust… hard.  Thankfully I only did that a couple times.  The rest of my time in the water I felt like I did ok for a beginner.  I even rode out a couple waves standing up.  It helped that the waves were very small.  I paddled to shore when my time slot was over, exhausted from treading water.  Zach still had time left, so I hung out with the others on shore and enjoyed the beach scene.  I couldn’t think of a better way to spend our last morning in South America.  There is something extremely fulfilling about crossing something off of your bucket list; it will leave a smile on your face for the rest of the day. 

We met a couple hours later with the rest of the group to walk to a building where Ana had arranged a tour for us.  I cannot think of the name of the project off hand, but it is a museum and memorial to social justice and tolerance in Peru.  The building is a new project, not yet open to the public, but Ana has connections everywhere it seems like.  I am assuming that is how she was able to get us in.  The project is a very nice example of emerging modern architecture in Latin America, or anywhere else for that matter.  The building was great; the couple mile walk to get there was not.  Regardless, walking was exponentially better than taking a bus.  Hopefully I never have to experience something like that again. 


Sunday, June 7, 2015

Travel Day through Peru

Today was primarily a travel day.  Normally, I don’t enjoy travel days too much because they just aren’t that exciting.  Today was a little different though.  It began with a fantastic breakfast at our hotel in Auguas Calientes.  Most of the breakfasts on this trip have been subpar, with mainly bread and cereal.  This morning was a breakfast full of fresh fruit, scrambled eggs, cheese, bread, and even pancakes!  It also helped that this was the first time in a week that I actually felt like eating breakfast.  Of course, my body would finally adjust to the high altitudes the day we leave, but hey I am not complaining. 

Anyways, we left our hotel around 8 a.m. to catch a train to Ollantaytambo, Peru.  The train ride should have taken an hour and a half, instead it took about 5.  The reason was because a wheel on our train car somehow derailed about 15 minutes into the trip.  We were stopped on the tracks for at least 2 or 3 hours.  The problem was fixed thankfully and we were able to get to our destination.  A driver met us at Ollantaytambo with a private bus where he transported us to a lunch buffet about 15 minutes away.  My appetite came back just in time because the food was really great.  I even tried alpaca meat and liked it!

After lunch we had about an hour bus ride back to Cusco, with a brief stop at a textile market.  The market was very much like ones we visited on World Tour.  First the locals tell you how they make it, starting with harvesting the material and then they lead you through every step of the process.  At the end they expect you to buy their goods.  It’s very effective.  You educate the tourists, get them involved, and before you know it they are hooked.  They have to buy something to commemorate the experience.  I saw their scheme from a mile away, and I still fell for it.  I bought a blanket woven of alpaca wool.  To be fair, I had previously planned to purchase one before I left Peru.  I don’t regret the purchase; I love it! 

I had planned to either nap or journal on the bus ride back to Cusco; however, the ride was so scenic that my eyes were glued out the window the entire trip.  We drove through The Golden Valley, up the side of a mountain, and through the foothills and plains of the Andes, all while the snow-capped mountains dominated the landscape.  It is, hands down, one of the prettiest roads I have ever been on.

We got to the Cusco airport in plenty of time for our flight to Lima, despite the morning train delay.  There were a couple hours of down time before our flight started boarding, so Amanda and I reviewed pictures that we took from Machu Picchu.  It is only a day later and it does not seem real that I was there.  With a place as pretty as Machu Picchu any photo you take is a great photo.  It makes amateur photographers (that’s me) look like experts. 

Our flight was a typical one.  It lasted about an hour and a half; I blogged for most of it.  The minute I stepped off the plane, my lungs had so much oxygen, by body didn’t know how to react.  It was a great feeling, also one that I had never felt before.  The air felt heavier breathing it in.  It made my lungs ache a little bit, but not in a bad way.  It didn’t take long for my body to adjust and I finally felt normal again.  After six full days, the altitude sickness was completely gone! 

It took a while, but we made it to our hotel in Lima, the last city on our itinerary.  Once again we are spoiled with a nice, clean room to stay in.  We are all very thankful for that.  I am speaking for us all when I say that it has been a fantastic trip so far.  I also know that we are ready to get back home.  For me specifically, it is bitter sweet.  I know that this is my last chance, probably ever, to travel on a trip of this magnitude.  Also, the idea of going back to work in a couple weeks is really putting a damper on my will to return home.  That being said, I am ready to see my family again, and my friends, and my roommates.  I want to sleep in my own bed, have an entire closet of clothes available for me to wear, and brush my teeth with my Sonicare.  It’s the little luxuries in life that I am most thankful for. 

Machu Picchu, Peru

Yesterday I walked through Machu Picchu.  It still seems surreal that I was there.  It is a place that everyone should get the chance to see in their lifetime.  There are just no words.  Even now as I try to record the day’s events, I find that all words leave me.  I mean, what is there to say about an ancient Incan city carved into a mountain top 8,000 feet in the air?  The pure fact that Machu Picchu exists is enough evidence for me that God exists, not that I needed any more.

If the Andes Mountains landscape is not impressive enough itself, think about how the Incans got up there.  It was quite the journey for us to get there even with modern technology.  It began with a flight to Cusco, Peru.  From Cusco we took a 30 minute bus ride to a train station in Ciudadela.  Next was a 3 hour train ride to Aguas Calientes.  From there, we finally reached Machu Picchu after a 20 minute bus ride, scaling the mountain on a switchback road.  It blows my mind thinking about how they constructed and lived up there without planes, trains, vehicles, and electricity.  Not only that, but to be committed to the development and construction of a civilization for centuries.  In today’s world, we can’t even commit to dinner plans. 

Ok, so the Incans get the city constructed.  How do they continue to live there, on top of a mountain?  I am not educated on the ecosystem and environment of the Andes Mountains, but it seems to me that the availability of resources may make life difficult.  It would not be an easy climb up and down the mountain, and it’s certainly not a trip you would want to make every day.

As I walked through the ruins yesterday, I was in awe of the environment around me, and the skill and precision involved in the construction.  We had about 5 hours to explore the site; I could have spent the entire day up there.  Amanda, Ana, and I walked around for most of the day.  We stopped several times to enjoy the views, take photos, and ultimately to rest.  Even though Machu Picchu is 3,000 feet lower than Cusco, it is still high enough to inflict altitude sickness.  I didn’t feel too bad, just short of breath at times.  Unfortunately, Amanda was struggling more than I was.  There wasn’t a bad view in the city.  I found myself several times gazing out at the mountains, at a loss for words.  Even today, I have tried several times to finish writing this blog, and I still can’t formulate the experience into words. 

More than any other landmark I have visited, Machu Picchu reminds me of my place in humanity.  It illustrates just how significant or insignificant life could be on earth.  Because of this, I feel an urgency to make every second of my human life count towards my eternity in heaven.  If it isn’t for God, then what is the point to life?

My life won’t be the same when I return home after traveling though South America, just like it wasn’t the same after World Tour.  Each place that I have had the opportunity to visit around the world has shaped my values and outlook on life.  Traveling has made me who I am today.  Learning about new cultures opens my eyes to such a different perspective that I sometimes have a hard time relating to the place I call home.  It makes me question everything I know to be true of life.  The questions, though, teach me so much about who I am and my purpose on earth.  But don’t worry Mom and Dad, I still think my home base will always be the Midwest.  After all, I could have none of this without their support.  They continue to give me the roots I need to grow and to experience the world through God’s eyes.

Instead of me continuing to ramble on, I guess you will just have to take my word for it.  Machu Picchu was phenomenal!  Being there evokes a certain spirituality that, if you allow it, will cause you to question anything and everything you know about life.


Friday, June 5, 2015

Cusco, Peru

Thursday morning we had a flight from La Paz to Cusco, Peru.  I can recall very few times that I have been more ready to leave a place than I was La Paz.  After two long days in the high altitude, my body still had not adjusted.  I woke up Thursday feeling worse than ever.  We all made it to the airport from our hostel despite being squished into a minivan with our entire luggage.  Yes, all 12 of us with our luggage fit into a van a little larger than a typical minivan.  It was a clown car if I ever saw one. 

The plane ride to Cusco was short, but eventful.  For most of the flight the pilot flew parallel to the Andes Mountains.  We got off the plane and I could certainly tell a difference in the way I felt, still not 100% but a large improvement over La Paz.  It probably also helped that I took an altitude sickness pill and an Imodium a couple hours prior. 

The weather in Cusco was gorgeous when we got there, sunny and 65 degrees.  A van took us directly to our hotel, which is by far the nicest we have stayed in thus far.  We all had a bit of time to wind down in our rooms before heading out to explore the city.  Thursday was the day of Corpus Christi, so the entire town took part in a celebration by the city’s main square.  I do not know a lot about the holiday and why it is celebrated by the Catholic community, but the square and the several blocks surrounding it were packed.  I have never seen so many people in one place at a time.  There were parades, band processionals, and street carts on every corner that lasted all day and into the early evening.  It was quite the experience to witness all the celebration. 

I tagged along with a group for lunch, even though eating was the last thing I wanted to do.  I ordered pasta with chicken and was able to choke down my first meal in three days.  Although my stomach was still upset, I felt like I had a lot more energy.  The rest of the afternoon was spent walking around, visiting markets, and enjoying the scenery.  Cusco is a beautiful city located in a valley of the Andes Mountains.  Everywhere you look you get a view of the mountains and the buildings that are built up on them.  It is similar to La Paz in that way.  What makes it better than La Paz in my opinion is the lower density and cleanliness of the city.  Cusco is much more geared towards tourism than La Paz.  In some aspects, I really enjoy that.  More people speak English and I feel more comfortable as a traveler.  That being said, any town that thrives off of tourism often loses the authenticity that makes traveling fun.  At this point in the trip, though, I am ready for some familiarity; so, I am soaking up the tourist atmosphere. 

There were a couple hours of down time before we met for dinner; I decided to take advantage of it.  I had the best shower I have had the entire trip.  There was great water pressure, hot water, and plenty of space to move around in.  I was even able to shave my legs for only the second time this trip. Additionally, the sink in our bathroom was clean and held water, so I was able to wash my last round of laundry.  Sink laundry is so much easier than shower laundry.  It’s funny the luxury that I live with daily that I take for granted.  I know I have said this many times already, but that’s why I love to travel.  The struggles… the unfamiliarity… it is humbling. 

((the next day))

Amanda and I both woke up today (Friday) feeling the altitude sickness yet again.  It is so frustrating.  One minute I feel pretty good and the next it hits me.  Going on day four I can say that I am ready to be done with anything and everything related to high altitudes.  We went down for breakfast with the rest of the group and ate, but decided to go back to the room and rest for a few more hours.  You are not supposed to push yourself with altitude sickness, so we are taking it easy again today in hopes that we will be rested up for Machu Picchu tomorrow. 

We ventured out for a couple hours to get lunch and shop at a few markets.  It wasn’t long before Amanda had exhausted all her energy, so we headed back to the hotel to rest again.  I could have stayed out and about by myself; the city is safe enough.  I didn’t really want to be by myself and I had no way of contacting anyone else in our group, so I rested with Amanda at the hotel until dinner time.  We watched TV and were fortunate enough to find a channel that had sitcoms in English.  Several episodes of Will and Grace, Two and a Half Men, and Friends helped pass the time.  Honestly for as much as we have been on the go, I really needed this afternoon of down time.  I could have done without the altitude sickness though. 

Thursday, June 4, 2015

La Paz, Bolivia

Today we all woke up with altitude sickness.  Just under 12,000 feet above sea level, La Paz is the highest metropolis in the world.  Had I known what we were flying into, I might have prepared myself a little better, although I don’t think there is much you can really do to prevent it.  Instead you just have to wait it out.  I do not have it nearly as bad as a few of the others, and for that I am thankful.  The side effects I am experiencing are mostly rapid heart rate and shortness of breath with a little bit of queasiness.  Other people have the same effects but with headaches, vomiting, diarrhea, or fatigue.  Ana headed out before breakfast to find coca tea for all of us.  Apparently it helps the body reach equilibrium faster, and it seems to be helping my queasiness so far.  It takes your body a day or two to adjust, but we are only in the city for two days, so I am hoping all of our symptoms subside quickly. 

From the little I saw, this city seems to be really great.  Most of our group headed out after breakfast to explore the city, but I decided to stay back with Spodek and Paige at the hostel, both were not feeling well.  I didn’t necessarily feel that sick, but the rapid heart rate made me feel subpar for most of the day.  With my history I didn’t want to push the issue.  The good news is this city is the highest elevation we will be visiting so with any luck the rest of the trip will be downhill.  Yes, that pun was intended. 

((a little while later))

I hung out in the lobby of the hostel for several hours by myself taking it easy, drinking water, and sketching.  Despite the circumstance, it was really quite nice.  I had some quiet time with God, reflecting on how thankful I am for good health.  It’s amazing how much I take that for granted.  After what seemed like forever the group of semi-healthy students came back to the hostel to rest for a bit after lunch.  Walking around on flat surfaces is one thing.  Walking up and down steep hills is a whole different ball game.  The constant elevation change of the city makes the altitude sickness that much harder to overcome.  So everyone took it easy for the day.  Ana, Spodek, Amanda, and I headed out about an hour later to see a bit of the city.  Ana was kind enough to show Spodek and me what we missed out on earlier in the day.  Mainly a cathedral and market is all that we missed, but I am still very happy that we got to go.  The weather was flawless, even a little bit on the warm side.  For the first time in at least a week I needed to use my sunglasses.  The little outing was fun, but I had exhausted all my energy after a couple hours.  We headed back to the hostel to meet with everyone else and to rest up before an early dinner.

I was hungry for dinner, given that I had only had a few crackers and a granola bar for lunch.  I didn’t exactly have an appetite for anything though.  I decided to try chicken soup because you can’t ever go wrong with that.  Let me tell you, this chicken soup should be in its own elite class.  There should be a warning on the menu.  The bowl they carried it out in was the size of a shared salad bowl at Olive Garden.  It was filled to the brim with broth, rice, potatoes, vegetables, and a half chicken, basically a roasted chicken cut in half and placed in the middle of the bowl.  I barely made a dent in the soup before I couldn’t eat any more.  The soup tasted great, I only wish I would have felt up to eating more of it. 


((The next day))

We had some visitors in our hostel room last night.  At 3:54 a.m. I woke up to the light glaring in my eyes.  They flicked off quickly so I didn’t think much of it.  Still half asleep I heard people speaking Spanish right outside our room.

 To understand the rest of this story I have to explain a few things about our hostel layout.  The ladies of our group have a suite that is only ours.  Inside our suite are three different rooms with beds in them.  Ana has her own room and the rest of us are split among rooms three and three.

After I woke up a little more, I realized there were people in our suite.  It didn’t take long for everyone to wake up and question why people were in our suite in the middle of the night, talking loudly I might add.  Ana came out and began to communicate with them, because none of us really know Spanish.  Apparently they were told by management that the room we are staying in was unoccupied.  So they flipped on the lights thinking they were moving in to our room.  Talk about a rude awakening, for both parties really.  So after several minutes of arguing, Ana shooed the strangers out of our suite, as we all went back to bed.  Not five minutes later we heard our suite door opening again!  This time it was the lady working at the hostel that stomped her way into our room.  Paige met her at the door and asked what she was doing in our room in the middle of the night.  Ana was immediately out of her room again, and began to converse with her.   Apparently she just wanted to come and check things out with our room.  There was miscommunication by the management and they thought the room was open.  Regardless of the issue, it is still unacceptable to wake up an entire suite of paying customers.  Needless to say, Ana sent an angry email recounting the events.

After several minutes of winding down from the strange event, I was able to fall back asleep.  I woke up a few hours later (Wednesday morning) feeling better for the most part; my stomach was still giving me issues but it was manageable.  We wanted to take it easy so we headed out to a well-known cafĂ© mid-morning and enjoyed the down time.  The main event of the day was riding cable cars up to the top of the city.  It was only $1 American dollar, but the experience was amazing.  It is the best way to see the entire city; once you get to the top there is a lookout point that makes you feel like you are standing on top of La Paz.  Also at the top, there was a cholita (a woman dressed in traditional Bolivian attire) with an alpaca that you could get your picture taken with.   I did not pay to have my photo taken but I had fun watching Ana, Judy, and Amanda get theirs.  We headed back down to the city in the cable car in search of a place for lunch.  We walked for an entirely long time before settling on a restaurant.  At this point I didn’t even feel like eating so it got a little frustrating.  I got chicken soup again; this time I was able to eat a little more, and it seemed to settle better.  Next on the agenda for me was a nap at the hostel. 

One last adventure in La Paz came a couple hours after we had rested at the hostel.  A small group of us decided last minute to walk to a nearby park and overlook the city from a skywalk.  I was a little nervous about going because I did not want to push my luck with the altitude sickness.  I was ok on the walk there because it was mostly downhill.  Unfortunately by the time we made it to the bridge it was dark outside.  Despite the disappointment, the view was still amazing.  The city was lit up with energy as the cars crawled along the roads, pedestrians bustled about the sidewalks, and athletes competed on various soccer fields.  Standing right in the middle of all the action seemed like a dream.  It’s a feeling I can’t describe.  I was distracted by the awe-inspiring view for several minutes and didn’t realize how fatigued I felt.  So the walk back was a slow one because we all had to take it easy; especially since we were walking uphill this time.  We made it back of course, and spent the rest of the evening packing for an early departure in the morning.  La Paz is a beautiful city, but it’s time to leave.  I love this city, but I hate how it makes all of us feel.  

Tuesday, June 2, 2015

Santa Cruz en route to La Paz

Our last day in Santa Cruz wasn’t too exciting, although it was nice to have a laid-back day.  It rained again today for most of the day; you would think we were near a rain forest or something.  The highlight of the day was walking up the Santa Cruz Cathedral tower.  It was a bit of a hike but worth it because the view overlooked the square and the surrounding area.  Other activities that I did during the day included market shopping, coffee drinking, empanada eating, and dessert sharing.  Oh, and I should mention that a pigeon landed on my head; no one else though it was a big deal but me.  Shortly after I finished telling the group why I didn’t enjoy the flock of pigeons, something scared the birds so they all flew in different directions.  One pigeon apparently thought I looked safe, so he landed right on top of my head.  Dumb pigeon.


We left Santa Cruz around 5 to head to the airport.  Our flight to La Paz left around 7:30 and arrived around 9 p.m. this evening.  The drive from the airport to our hostel was amazing, even at night.  La Paz is located in a valley of the Andes Mountains and expands upwards.  Immediately we all noticed the much thinner air as it was a little harder to breathe than normal.  This, combined with the steep elevation change, will make for a great workout over the next couple days. 

We have a hostel again, which we all know isn’t my favorite, but this one is pretty unique and clean.  For that I am thankful.  Amanda, Paige, and I went on a mission to find bottled water before settling in at the hostel.  It was only 10:30 p.m. but we had a hard time finding a place that was open nearby.  Finally we saw a restaurant on a street corner and decided to try it.  They had water, but in 2 liter bottles.  So we each bought a couple.  The minute we walked in it was clear we were out of place.  Everyone was very nice though and helped us.  We returned back to the hostel and shared the stockpile of bottled water with a few others.  There is something about being able to tackle a situation like that successfully that makes one feel accomplished.  Again with traveling, it’s always the little things that have the most importance.